This is a walk we have done before, back on September 2 2016 when we completed the Camino del Norte. I’d like to say it brought back memories but either a lot of the Camino has been re-routed, the conditions were very different or I’m getting old but I didn’t recognize much of the walk at all!

Our walking plans are now dominated by the weather and our attempt to keep just a little bit dry. The weather was forecast to be clear until about 4pm so we planned an early get away but, as luck would have it, the forecast changed to have an hour or so of rain in the morning before clearing. Nevertheless we headed off into what was initially sprinkles but increased to light but steady rain before clearing, as forecast, just after 10am.

We repeated our mistake of 7 years ago and stopped at the first cafe in town, this time in A Calle after about an hour and a half of walking, to have a break and reset our gear. As was the case 7 years ago, so did everyone else! Consequently, the break was longer than we intended but it was worth it for the break. I could make a comment about crowded cafes bringing out the worst in people but I’m told I’m getting grumpy so I’ll move on!

Not long after leaving the cafe (rain had started again while we were stopped) a very excited South Korean man started talking to Alison about her poles. Alison has these very lightweight Helinox “Z” poles and has never been able to understand why she doesn’t see others with similar poles. Well, evidently the South Korean felt the same way! One of the moments that makes the Camino so special!

Although the rain cleared shortly after we headed off again, the condition of the track had deteriorated and it was pretty hard going for a while trying to navigate along the less muddy sections. Again, I could say that in such conditions the cyclists could have a bit of consideration for others and stick to the roads rather than ripping up the track, which is really for walkers, but I think they’ll reach the same conclusion when they see the line of mud on their clothes when they finish!

We had a lovely stop for lunch at the 2nd bar in Brea, with the place virtually to ourselves and the 1st bar packed to the rafters…

Although it was threatening, the rain held off as we completed today’s walk, finishing where we stayed 7 years ago at O Acrivo in A Rúa. This time, however, we are staying off the Camino at a rural guest house so only stayed for a drink!

18km of very nice walking for the most part today to get to 734km, with the video here.

Leaving Arzúa in very light rain, a fair bit earlier than normal!
It felt darker than this photo indicates – the track already pretty wet just out of Arzúa
Ponchos on after a few kms, and plenty of company on the Camino
Looking back over the valley to Arzúa through the light rain
Coffee at Café Lino in A Calle
The only two pairs of Helinox z poles on the Camino!
The steep climb out of A Calle
Lunch in Brea in El Rincón de Maria
Last time we passed this place it was jam packed – still pretty busy though
The steep downhill into A Rúa
Back at O Acrivo

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